AlexisKletjian: Birthstones

Alexis Kletjian

THE STYLE LAB : EMERALD INPSIRATION

4:23 PM

Birthstone

OCTOBER BIRTHSTONE : OPAL AND TOURMALINE

6:01 PM

20th Century Opal and Diamond "Lucky" Horseshoe Brooch

Happy Birthday to all that share this month, you enviably have two birthstones!

Since there is much information to cover on each birthstone, I will discuss each gemstone in separate posts. Each are deserving of their own turn in the spotlight. Since Opal is the hot gemstone of the moment, I am starting with it.

When I was a child, I had a beautiful Opal pendant. Although I cannot remember the details of its setting and accompanying stones, what I do remember is the rumored tale of the unlucky Opal, along with the delicate nature of the stone. The unlucky tale bewildered me, this curse of the unlucky and delicately fragile Opal which I completely swore off, and I'm not the only one. So how did Opals gain a bad reputation with such diverse and beautiful features?

Opal's "unlucky" rumors originated from careless readings of Sir Walter Scott's 1880 novel entitled Anne of Geierstien, in which the main character, Lady Hermione, wears an enchanted Opal in her hair. Hermione's Opal had beautiful shining spectral colors when she was happy, and burned bright with fiery red flashes when angry. As the story goes, the spell was broken when the Opal was sprinkled with holy water. Not only did the gemstone lose both its fire and shine, Hermione fell ill and the stone turned to ash!

It is unfortunate many jewelry collectors have shared these unlucky fears through false information. Having fallen out of favor during the 18^th century, Opals have simply not been given the credit they deserve. Luckily for us, Opals are rising in popularity once again. Opals are experiencing a hay day as one of the hottest colored gemstones in fine and fashion jewelry. They are currently within the glossy pages of all your favorite magazines.

Opals are everywhere due to their skyrocketing exposure, and we all know what makes them unique to each of us. But throughout history, Opals were regarded as the luckiest and most magical of all gemstones because of their wonderful play-of-color and ability to encompass the colors of every gemstone. Play-of-color occurs in Opals due to the gems' sub-microscopic spheres that stack in grid-like pattern, and as light-waves travel in between these spheres, waves diffract and bend light into gorgeous flashes of rainbow color. Many cultures have credited Opal with supernatural origins and powers; Opals have also been compared to fireworks, volcanoes, and far away galaxies.

Opal occurs in many distinct varieties with varying body colors such as Fire Opal, Boulder Opal, Harlequin Opal, Mexican Opal, Ethiopian Opal, Black and White Opals (to name just a few). Literally there is an Opal for everyone. Opals, with the proper care, can last lifetimes for you to wear, admire, and pass on to your loved ones along with their symbolizing hope of power and luck.

I heard a rumor, you may have a beautiful Opal in your future...

Enjoy your birthstone. May it bring you all of these qualities and more.

August Birthstone

AUGUST BIRTHSTONE : PERIDOT

9:03 PM

Birthstone Jewelry

JUNE BIRTHSTONE : PEARL, ALEXANDRITE AND MOONSTONE

9:51 PM

Pearl is the last of the three birthstones for June, and perhaps the best-loved gems of all time. Pearls are pure and organic treasures from the Earth, residing in ponds, lakes, seas, and oceans. Pearls are almost as old as Mankind and possibly the first true gem our ancestors used to adorn themselves with. Unlike faceted gems, a pearl is beautiful from the beginning. Embodied by mystery, power, and occurring in a wide variety of desirable colors - in natural and cultured pearls.

Although white and cream pearls have remained a classic status symbol of wealth for thousands of years, appreciation has grown for natural earth tone hues and shapes ranging from the perfect shining spheres, lustrous baroque free forms, and unique keishi flakes. Coincidentally, pearls share a trait with the other two birthstones for June, they are also a phenomenal gemstone, and display the iridescent phenomenon known as orient.

Orient is one of the most beautiful and unique effects found on pearls. The pearls of the Persian Gulf were known as "Oriental Pearls" to Romans, and therefore the name "orient" was given to pearls that possessed a unique play of color on their surface. Pearl orient is complicated to explain, created in part by the nacre's thickness, sculptural lines, deep luster, surface purity, color, and reflections - all allowing the pearl to display subtle color variations while in motion. The more intense the effect is, the more desirable the pearl is.

Natural pearls form around a microscopic irritant in the bodies, and mantle tissues of certain mollusks - without man's help. Cultured (man grown) pearls are the result of the deliberate insertion of a bead or piece of tissue that the mollusk coats with nacre. Cultured pearls are raised specifically for purpose, and require human intervention and care, such as the well-known Freshwater pearl. Three popular types of saltwater cultured pearls with the desired orient effect are the Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian.

Pearls portray ultimate feminine energy and have long been associated with elegance and beauty. They are said to give the wearer a sense of calm, integrity, loyalty, truth and purity.

Enjoy your birthstone. May it bring you all of the qualities and more!

Read about your other two birthstones - visit the Alexandrite and Moonstone posts.

AGTA

A TOP NOTCH AFTERNOON

8:12 PM

On Sunday, I had the pleasure of visiting Joy Street Studios, a collaborative workspace in Somerville, MA that is the home for studios of artisans in all genres. The attraction? Joy Street Studios was hosting none other than Jean-Noel Soni, the award winning gem cutter that is Top Notch Faceting.

After many months of watching his sought after gemstones appear (and disappear) on Instagram it was wonderful to finally met Jean-Noel, and witness the brilliance of his award winning gems in person!

Jean-Noel showing a crystal, photograph by Alexis Kletjian

Jean-Noel was raised by his mother, who had a passion for collecting antique jewelry. It was through her inspiration that he sought out a class in metal smithing. The (highly unusual) teacher of the class demanded gem cutting cabochons as a prerequisite before he began his education. It is there that Jean-Noel developed his admiration for the crystal, in all its forms. He has such appreciation for the stones he selects, some never get his special faceting at all.

Nigerian Phenakites shown in a rough specimen and beautifully faceted by Jean-Noel Soni

In the few short years since Jean-Noel has been faceting gems, he has won two AGTA Spectrum Awards. He won first place in 2013 for the Innovative Faceting category with a 7.7 carat pink and gold bi-color West African Tourmaline, and recently won third place this past February, 2014 for a 24.12 carat Tanzanian Color Change Garnet in the Phenomenal Gemstone category.

Award Winning Phenomenal Color Change Garnet by Top Notch Faceting

Not only is this award winning garnet phenomenal in its own right, but phenomenal actually describes the type of gemstone it is - and that it displays a phenom of color changing abilities. View the video of this gorgeous Garnet sparkling on my hand at the event.

Some of Jean-Noel's favorites gemstones are Garnets, Tourmalines and Spinels, and he presented many in his relaxed style of open dialogue where he shared each gemstone's journey from rough to faceted in a variety of shapes and colors. He not only cares that his gemstones are ethically sourced, he is also focused on forming lasting relationships with the collectors of his creations and seeing their journey through to the end. Jean-Noel travels across the country connecting with collectors, jewelers, students, and other industry professionals in the way of the old school - a handshake and a smile.

I want give a very special thank you to the beautiful and talented Zoe Juanita Beatty, otherwise known as MakaZoe, who graciously hosted Jean-Noel and many guests in her studio while he completed his East Coast tour, making it possible for me to be able to experience his "wizardry" in person!