AlexisKletjian: Birthstone

Alexis Kletjian

Winter last year was absolutely brutal. New Englanders can’t help but recall the snow buried cars, icy roads, the repeatedly cancelled everything. January started out mild, but already the thermometer has taken a southern turn - think ZERO degrees – here in New England. Although we New Englanders are known to be especially hardy, the moment freezing temperatures set in, my daydreams immediately turn to longing for the warmth of Spring. I tend to bundle up, hide in my cozy home, and wait the Winter out. Well, that sounds pathetic now, doesn't it.

However, there ARE reasons to love January. One being the fresh start it brings. A renewal not only of the calendar year, but the creation of reasons to employ change in our lives. And change is good.

You may recall from my very first posts last year, that Garnet is the birthstone for January. Garnet has gorgeous deep crimson variety that happens to occur in the recently announced Pantone Color of the Year : Marsala! How fortuitous for this abundant and affordable gemstone. I predict you will see the popularity of Garnets return.

I am thrilled, because my friend, Jean-Noel of Top Notch Faceting, has a special affinity for the Garnet and in 2015 I hope to collect a few of his wizardly fashioned gemstones for my personal collection. If you want one, too, you'll need to get in line (behind me) because his award winning gemstones are one of the hottest things happening in the colored gemstone market. You know who also noticed? Vogue. The French edition of Vogue, known as Vogue Paris, recently mentioned Top Notch Faceting as follows: "Jean-Noel, the San Francisco-based lapidary is the gemology equivalent of rock royalty..." Now, pair the hottest gemstone cutter rocking his favorite gemstone, the garnet, in the forecasted color of the year, where it will dominate in every market. I'd say Jean-Noel has a winning combination on his hands.

Rough and Faceted Tanzanian Garnets by Top Notch Faceting

Let's revisit a post I wrote last January, about color, and it's importance when Pantone, the color forecasting experts, released last year's color of the year : Radiant Orchid. Purplish-pink was everywhere. Do you hate purple now? I bet you were tired of hearing those two descriptive words, over and over...

And now, Marsala! Are you disappointed? You needn't be. Marsala is already so prevalent in our everyday lives, you probably don't realize how many natural ways this color occurs, and the many colors it does complement. We have wild flowers, succulents, red wine, rich woods, leather, velvet, historical buildings, burgundies and GARNETS! A color of every season. So, there you have it. In addition to color, Pantone is an undisputed style forecaster.

Marsala, the color of every season, is especially the color now with cozy indoor nights: wine, firelight, flowers, and gemstones! January, you are starting to look very good to me. Bring it on.

Birthstone

DECEMBER BIRTHSTONE : TURQUOISE AND ZIRCON

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Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Gold Ballerina in Turquoise, Ruby and Diamond

Happy Birthday to all who share this month. You enviably have two birthstones!

I am only going to discuss Turquoise right now, which is also my daughters birthstone, but fear not - I will address the beautiful Zircon in the near future. I have a special collaboration I am currently working on featuring the Zircon which I will reveal late Spring.

Turquoise is one of the world's most ancient gems; man's knowledge of Turquoise and appreciation is very old. Archaeological excavations revealed that the rulers of ancient Egypt adorned themselves in Turquoise. The Turquoise jewelry found in ancient Egyptian tombs is amongst the world's oldest jewelry. For seventy five hundred years, four Turquoise and gold bracelets encircled the arm of the mummy of Queen Zer and is believed to be the oldest piece of Turquoise discovered, dating around 5500 BC.

Ancient Egyptians once referred to turquoise as "mefkat" which translates to "joy" and "delight". Turquoise has continued to delight our ancestors and has inspired modern day jewelry designers with it's plentiful supply fashioned into beads, cabochons, unique free form creations and intricate inlays set beautifully in silver and gold. Turquoise is one of the only gemstones (second to the diamond) to flatter all complexions.

Although Turquoise may lack the sparkle and clarity (of the big three) transparent colored gemstones such as Emerald, Ruby and Sapphire, Turquoise has a multi-layered history and soul-satisfying color that makes it a desirable gem nonetheless. People value turquoise for its combination of ancient heritage and unforgettable color - a reminder of beautiful, clear blue skies that requires no explanation or education to appreciate.

Turquoise is a relatively soft material and ideal for carving. Chinese artisans were carving the material more than 3,000 years ago! Although well known to consumers with it's place marked in history, Turquoise's popularity comes and goes. Turquoise enjoys it's biggest and most permanent popularity in the American Southwest. Turquoise is often used as a medium for carved jewelry and art objects, fashioned into talismans with Native American significance, such as bird and animal carvings, called fetishes.

Turquoise was a once a ceremonial gem, used in amulets and as a medium of exchange for Native American tribes in the Southwestern US. Turquoise is also the national gem of Tibet and has long been considered a stone that guarantees health, good fortune, and protection from evil. Turquoise is also legened to balance while aligning chakras, stabilizing mood swings and instilling inner calm.

Enjoy your birthstone. May it bring you all of these qualities and more.

Birthstone

NOVEMBER'S BIRTHSTONE : CITRINE

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Birthstone

OCTOBER BIRTHSTONE : OPAL AND TOURMALINE

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Paraiba Tourmaline Ring. Photo Credit: 1st Dibs

Happy Birthday to all that share this month, you enviably have two birthstones!

Since there is much information to cover on each birthstone, I will discuss each gemstone in separate posts. Each are deserving of their own turn in the spotlight. We already covered Opal, you can read our post here.

Before modern mineralogy, gemstones were often confused with other species of same coloring. Great historical examples of mistaken identity are Ruby, Peridot and Tourmaline.

Upon discovery in Brazil during the 1500's, Tourmaline was mistaken for Emerald, along with any unearthed green gemstone. The confusion over Tourmaline's true identity continued well into the 1800's until scientists recognized this beauty as a distinct mineral species of its own. Tourmaline is named for this case of mistaken identity. Its meaning translates to "mixed gem" in Sinhala, as spoken in Sri Lanka.

Tourmalines come in a variety of exciting colors, they occur in various shades of every hue, and enjoy one of the widest color ranges of any gem species! One of the most sought-after (and available) colors occurring in Tourmaline is the pink/red variety and known as rubellite. Also, green Tourmalines can be strongly pleochroic, meaning you will see attractive color in both directions such as bright green on one side, and blue on another. Pleochroic gemstones are known to be valuable due to this phenomenon.

Faceted Tourmaline Gemstones. Photo credit : GIA

Paraiba Tourmaline was discovered in the late 1980's and displayed striking neon blues and greens - it electrified the gem world! This rare and valuable Tourmaline had such unique and vivid coloring, it instantly stood apart from other Tourmalines. The demand for this stone became insatiable; Paraiba's continue to rise in value and popularity.

You may already be familiar with the bi-colored exotic color combinations of the fashionable watermelon variety. This fun and exotic multicolored zoning occurs in Watermelon Tourmaline when trace elements change in concentration (or composition) during the crystal's growth. Watermelon Tourmaline is plentiful, yet each slice is unique to the cut. Watermelon Tourmalines are usually fashioned into custom mountings created specifically for each stone.

Watermelon Tourmaline Slices

Tourmaline is believed to evoke vibrations of happiness; a rainbow of positive emotions. Legends states every hue can unlock a separate emotion and aids in protection against negativity. Now, go choose a special tourmaline for yourself (or from my collection) and enjoy the unlimited happiness hidden within your hue!

Enjoy your birthstone. May it bring you all of these qualities and more.

Birthstone

OCTOBER BIRTHSTONE : OPAL AND TOURMALINE

6:01 PM

20th Century Opal and Diamond "Lucky" Horseshoe Brooch

Happy Birthday to all that share this month, you enviably have two birthstones!

Since there is much information to cover on each birthstone, I will discuss each gemstone in separate posts. Each are deserving of their own turn in the spotlight. Since Opal is the hot gemstone of the moment, I am starting with it.

When I was a child, I had a beautiful Opal pendant. Although I cannot remember the details of its setting and accompanying stones, what I do remember is the rumored tale of the unlucky Opal, along with the delicate nature of the stone. The unlucky tale bewildered me, this curse of the unlucky and delicately fragile Opal which I completely swore off, and I'm not the only one. So how did Opals gain a bad reputation with such diverse and beautiful features?

Opal's "unlucky" rumors originated from careless readings of Sir Walter Scott's 1880 novel entitled Anne of Geierstien, in which the main character, Lady Hermione, wears an enchanted Opal in her hair. Hermione's Opal had beautiful shining spectral colors when she was happy, and burned bright with fiery red flashes when angry. As the story goes, the spell was broken when the Opal was sprinkled with holy water. Not only did the gemstone lose both its fire and shine, Hermione fell ill and the stone turned to ash!

It is unfortunate many jewelry collectors have shared these unlucky fears through false information. Having fallen out of favor during the 18^th century, Opals have simply not been given the credit they deserve. Luckily for us, Opals are rising in popularity once again. Opals are experiencing a hay day as one of the hottest colored gemstones in fine and fashion jewelry. They are currently within the glossy pages of all your favorite magazines.

Opals are everywhere due to their skyrocketing exposure, and we all know what makes them unique to each of us. But throughout history, Opals were regarded as the luckiest and most magical of all gemstones because of their wonderful play-of-color and ability to encompass the colors of every gemstone. Play-of-color occurs in Opals due to the gems' sub-microscopic spheres that stack in grid-like pattern, and as light-waves travel in between these spheres, waves diffract and bend light into gorgeous flashes of rainbow color. Many cultures have credited Opal with supernatural origins and powers; Opals have also been compared to fireworks, volcanoes, and far away galaxies.

Opal occurs in many distinct varieties with varying body colors such as Fire Opal, Boulder Opal, Harlequin Opal, Mexican Opal, Ethiopian Opal, Black and White Opals (to name just a few). Literally there is an Opal for everyone. Opals, with the proper care, can last lifetimes for you to wear, admire, and pass on to your loved ones along with their symbolizing hope of power and luck.

I heard a rumor, you may have a beautiful Opal in your future...

Enjoy your birthstone. May it bring you all of these qualities and more.

Birthstone

SEPTEMBER BIRTHSTONE : SAPPHIRE

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Star Sapphire, image courtesy of GIA

Happy Birthday to all who share this month. Sapphire is your birthstone.

When I was a little girl my parents would occasionally gift me with custom jewelry for my tiny fingers. I never realized how lucky I was to receive such luxurious gifts at a young age. One Christmas morning, I opened a small box to reveal a bright star sapphire ring, which was set in yellow gold and created by my Father just for me. The stone was a beautiful blue with the sharpest star rays I have ever seen to this very day. I would later learn through my gemstone education - the sharper the star - the more valuable the stone. What a wonderful Christmas gift to your daughter. I can only hope I loved it and wore it as intended after the careful thought and love that came through its creation at his bench. Unfortunately, it was stolen from me as a child. I so wish I still had it so I could pass it, and the story it held, down to my daughter.

Sapphire is derived from the Greek word sappherios, which translates to blue. Sapphire’s extraordinary blue color is the standard which all other blue gemstones are measured against. In ancient Greece and Rome, kings and queens were convinced the blue Sapphire protected its wearer from envy and harm.

Even though blue is perhaps one of the most popular colors for Sapphire, this gemstone appears in a kaleidoscope of "fancy colors." There truly is a sapphire shade for everyone, no matter what your favorite color happens to be! From the regal and elegant shades of blue, the sapphire also delivers a palette of intense and pastel colors such as pinks, purples, oranges, yellows, lavender and various shades of greens. Sapphires can even be gray, black or brown. As you see, they are a color wheel unto themselves.

Sapphires boast a few beautiful examples of phenomena (an unusual optical effect displayed by a gem) be it a color changing day-to-night stone or sometimes seen in cabochons the phenomena of asterism, the sharp six rayed star that dances across Sapphire's sleek dome. Sapphires really do have a lot of fun. They are suitable for everyday jewelry as well as treasured in our important and rare jewels of the world. Sapphires are always en vogue, they retain their value, and remain one of the top choices for gemstone jewelry, being one of the big three color gemstones which also includes the Ruby and the Emerald.

For centuries, Sapphire has been associated with royalty and romance, and is linked to events in history as well as fictional and modern day fairytales. Sapphires are known to symbolize nobility, truth, sincerity, and faithfulness.

Enjoy your birthstone. May it bring you all of these qualities and more.

August Birthstone

AUGUST BIRTHSTONE : PERIDOT

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Birthstone

JULY BIRTHSTONE : RUBY

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Harry Winston ruby and diamond slippers created for the 50th anniversary of The Wizard Of Oz
Photograph courtesy of GIA

Happy Birthday to all who share this month! Ruby is your birthstone.

As a July baby, one would think I would be attracted to the passion and lore that comes with the bold, intense color of my birthstone. Red represents the color of intense emotions, famously associated with objects of desire, power, success and wealth. These attributes make ruby the "King of Precious Stones." I appreciate how deep the love is for this historically important gem that holds the title as the most important gemstone in the colored stone market, but when it comes to jewelry, you probably already know ruby is not my top choice. Even though this fiery, passionate red happens to be the color of my studio floors, and the bottom of my new boots, the diamond is forever my love, even if this is our month. Let’s get to it, shall we?

Ruby is a sapphire, and a sapphire is a ruby. Well, almost. They are both the mineral corundum. Corundum is found growing in marble deposits, and the trace element found in ruby is what makes it a ruby, not a sapphire. The mineral corundum in its purest form is colorless; chromium is the trace element that causes ruby's beautiful red color, and the strength of color saturation depends on how much chromium is present during growth.

Since this post is dedicated to the color of the ruby, let’s be specific, because color is the most significant factor that affects ruby's value! The finest rubies are a pure vibrant red, yet a slight purplish color; not too dark, not too light. If ruby's color is too dark and has a negative effect on the stone's brightness, it will lose value on the quality scale. Just as if the color is too light, it may be considered to be a pink sapphire, not a ruby. Not only does everyone's eye see different shades of colors (as mentioned previously) there are also cultural differences in the interpretation of the ruby versus the pink sapphire. However, both gems being beautiful - their value is different.

Ruby has enjoyed a most regal position in myth, legend, and lore for thousands of years: the favored talisman amongst royalty worldwide. Rubies are said to bring courage, happiness, healing, passion, and prosperity to those who wear this fine gemstone. Now, to attract more rubies into your jewelry box, click your slippers together three times and say : "There's no place like home!"

Enjoy your birthstone. May it bring you all these qualities and more.

Alexandrite

JUNE'S BIRTHSTONE : PEARL, ALEXANDRITE, AND MOONSTONE

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Birthstone

JUNE BIRTHSTONE : PEARL, ALEXANDRITE AND MOONSTONE

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April Birthstone

MAY BIRTHSTONE : EMERALD

10:20 AM

Bulgari Emerald Suite previously owned by Elizabeth Taylor

Happy Birthday to all that share this month, Emerald is your birthstone.

Emeralds are one of the most prized colored gemstones due to their unique characteristics and rare qualities. I am captivated by their mysterious deep green color and rich history. It is one of the most significant jewels of our time. Fine Emeralds are so rare they may rival or exceed the carat-for-carat value of the Diamond. Legend states that Emeralds were one of the four precious stones given to God by King Solomon, giving him power over all creation. Emeralds have been a fascination in many cultures for over six thousand years and were mined in Egypt as early as 300 B.C. Emerald was the favorite gemstone of Cleopatra, the Queen of Egypt. She adored the gemstone so much the first emerald mines in Egypt were named after her.

I can't help reflecting upon the similarities of the royalty of Elizabeth Taylor's life as she starred in the 1963 Hollywood blockbuster Cleopatra, through which she met Richard Burton and eventually made him husband number five. The depiction of her onscreen queen versus her offscreen queen personae has captivated us all for decades. If there ever was a “royal” American, Elizabeth Taylor would be the queen. The tumultuous saga of Taylor and Burton's love affair gave the world its peek at this legendary Bulgari emerald suite (as pictured above) amongst other important jewelry in her vast and unrivaled collection.

The name Emerald comes from the Greek word “smaragdos” via the Old French word “esmeralde.” It translates to “green gemstone.” In ancient Rome, green was the color of Venus, the goddess of beauty and love. The magnificent green of the Emerald has long been associated with harmony, love of nature and an elemental joie de vivre. It makes the Emerald the perfect birthstone for May as we welcome springtime.

Enjoy your Birthstone! May it bring you all these qualities and more.